Beginner’s guide to keeping spiders
Spiders have long evoked extreme reactions, some people find them terrifying, while others are fascinated by them and enjoy observing them up close. More and more people are choosing to keep spiders at home, appreciating both their uniqueness and the relatively low maintenance requirements of many species. They are also generally easy to care for. However, before deciding to buy your first spider, it is worth learning which species are suitable for beginners and how to properly set up a terrarium for them.
Is a spider a good choice for a first pet?
Spiders can be an excellent choice for those looking for an unusual pet that does not require much work or constant interaction with its owner. They are animals intended for observation rather than handling. Spiders do not take up much space, and many species are incredibly colorful and fascinating to watch.
At the same time, it is important to remember that spiders have specific requirements regarding humidity, temperature, safety, and their environment. Even low-maintenance species require their owner to possess some basic knowledge.
Although spiders are predators and are often associated with strong and resilient invertebrates, many of them are, in fact, extremely delicate. Without a basic understanding of their care requirements, it is easy to make a mistake and unintentionally harm your pet.
The choice of spider species matters
Spiders are an incredibly diverse group, not only in terms of appearance and size. They exhibit a wide range of hunting, behavioral, and reproductive strategies that differ significantly from one another. In addition, they possess remarkable adaptations that allow them to thrive in a variety of environments. Although the number of species available in the pet trade is limited compared to the diversity found in nature, the selection is still extensive. As a result, people who are just beginning to take an interest in spiders may feel overwhelmed.
Before discussing the care requirements of spiders, it is worth first becoming familiar with the key characteristics and differences between the various groups. Spiders commonly available in captivity can be divided into two main groups:
- tarantulas (Mygalomorphae), which include tarantulas, trapdoor spiders, and other primitive spiders,
- true spiders (Araneomorphae), which include jumping spiders, orb-weavers, wolf spiders, velvet spiders and many other groups of spiders.
Mygalomorphae
Mygalomorphae are generally larger spiders. This group includes the world’s largest spiders, such as tarantulas of the genus Theraphosa. Depending on the species and sex, they live anywhere from a few years to more than 20 years. Males have significantly shorter lifespans than females. Their long lifespan is accompanied by a prolonged growth period, with female tarantulas often taking 4–6 years to reach sexual maturity. The lifestyle of these spiders is usually centered around ambush hunting. They wait for prey at the entrance to their retreat or move around the immediate vicinity of their hiding place in search of food.
These spiders have poor eyesight and rely primarily on their sense of touch. Using sensitive hairs, they detect vibrations in the ground and air. They do not build typical hunting webs. However, some species place signal threads around the entrance to their retreat or cover the surrounding area with a dense, hammock-like web that also serves a signaling function. Prey does not become stuck or entangled in this silk; instead, the silk provides the spider with information about the prey’s location and size, allowing it to strike with remarkable precision.
The most popular pet spiders in this group are tarantulas and the so-called trapdoor spiders, which create their retreats in a particularly interesting way. They construct vertical tunnels in the ground and build a hinged flap at the entrance using silk and often various materials found in the surrounding environment for camouflage. The flap remains closed most of the time and is opened only when the spider attacks its prey, after which it quickly retreats back inside. The term “trapdoor spider” does not refer to a single spider family but rather to various spiders from many different families that build their retreats in this manner. Although their hunting strategy is extremely fascinating, the spiders themselves are rarely seen. For this reason, they are not the best choice for people who want to observe their pet frequently. Tarantulas, which are generally more active outside their retreats, are a better option. In general, ground-dwelling species are recommended for beginners, whereas arboreal species are usually discouraged due to their speed and agility.
True Spiders (Araneomorphae)
Araneomorphae are much more diverse in many respects. They generally have shorter lifespans, usually up to 1–1.5 years, although some species can live for approximately 2–5 years. They are smaller in size and employ a wide variety of hunting and reproductive strategies. Among the most popular true spiders kept as pets are jumping spiders. They have excellent eyesight, are highly active, can recognize their caretaker, and respond to what is happening around them. In addition, many species display beautiful coloration.
Another fascinating group is the giant orb-weavers of the genus Nephila, which build large spiral hunting webs. Female orb-weavers can reach impressive sizes and are often released onto branch structures outside the terrarium so they can construct their webs there. In many cases, a terrarium becomes too restrictive and would need to be exceptionally large to accommodate their web-building behavior.
There are several other groups of true spiders available in the pet trade, and it is worth exploring the species currently on offer. Unfortunately, species from this group are generally less common. When choosing a suitable species, you should also consider its speed, temperament, and venom potency. If you are new to spider keeping, avoid fast and skittish species. The calmer and less demanding the species you choose, the better your chances of avoiding mistakes.
How many spiders can you keep in a terrarium?
Most spider species are predators and cannibals. As a result, only one spider is typically kept in a single terrarium. Only certain species available in captivity can be housed in groups, and even then, only under specific conditions. Group housing is more challenging and is recommended for people who already have experience keeping spiders and can anticipate their behavior in various situations. It always carries a risk of conflicts and attacks between individuals. Many factors influence spider behavior, and during periods of increased stress, losses may occur.
What kind of terrarium should you choose for a spider?
The size and type of terrarium should be matched to the species and life stage of the spider. Species descriptions typically specify the minimum terrarium size required for an adult specimen. In most cases, these are terrariums measuring approximately 20 × 20 × 30 cm, although some species require larger enclosures or even open space, such as large web-spinning spiders of the genus Nephila. Juveniles are often kept in smaller rearing containers appropriate for their size, most commonly plastic laboratory containers, food containers, or acrylic mini-terrariums.
Depending on the species’ lifestyle, either a horizontal or vertical terrarium may be required. For ground-dwelling species that dig shallow burrows or spend most of their time on the ground, a horizontal terrarium is the best option, as it provides adequate living space. For arboreal and subterranean species, vertical terrariums are generally more suitable.
Ventilation in a spider terrarium
A spider terrarium should be well ventilated. However, gravity ventilation, where some ventilation openings are located at the top of the enclosure and others at the bottom, is not always used. This type of ventilation provides the most efficient air exchange, but it also causes the substrate to dry out more quickly. This can be particularly dangerous for young spiders, which are more sensitive to drops in humidity. For this reason, small containers housing juvenile spiders are usually equipped with top ventilation only. Many breeders also use this type of ventilation for adult spiders. Air exchange still occurs within such enclosures and is sufficient for most species. The main drawback of this ventilation method is the increased risk of mold growth or accidental overwatering, which can result in a waterlogged substrate.
What substrate should you use in a spider terrarium?
The substrate in a terrarium serves more functions than one might expect. It not only contributes to the enclosure’s appearance but, more importantly, helps maintain appropriate humidity levels and provides the spider with a stable surface for movement and digging.
The most commonly used substrate is ground coconut fiber, such as Tropical Bioterra, as it is resistant to mold growth. It also retains moisture well and changes color depending on its moisture content, making it easy to determine at a glance whether it requires additional watering. Other commonly used substrates include deacidified peat, bioactive terrarium substrates, sand, and various mixtures of these materials. Gravel, clay, vermiculite, and other additives can also be incorporated to diversify the substrate’s structure, improve moisture retention, and better match the planned terrarium décor.
Substrates containing plant fertilizers should be avoided. The substrate should also be free of sharp elements, such as rock fragments or coconut chips, which could injure the spider’s abdomen during a fall or while molting. Always remember that the substrate should be selected according to the requirements of the species being kept.
- For moisture-loving spiders, a substrate that absorbs water and retains moisture for extended periods is essential.
- Xerophilic species do well on a variety of substrates, provided they are not excessively moist.
- Burrowing species require a stable substrate that does not collapse easily during digging. While substrates intended for moisture-loving species generally hold their structure better, sand alone is not suitable for this purpose. Instead, prepare a substrate mixture capable of maintaining its shape.
The depth of the substrate should be adjusted to the lifestyle of the species. For arboreal spiders, the substrate plays a relatively minor role and primarily serves to maintain humidity, so it does not need to be particularly deep. Terrestrial species should be provided with enough substrate to allow them to dig a shallow retreat. The deepest substrate layers are required by fossorial species that live in more extensive burrows.
A hiding place – not necessary for every species
A hiding place is an important element of terrarium décor. It is safe to say that almost all spider species use hiding places to some extent, although not always in the same way. Some species spend nearly their entire lives in a single retreat and lead a highly sedentary lifestyle. Others are active hunters, web-building species, or spiders that wait for prey from an exposed position; however, they also seek shelter when necessary, most often when disturbed or resting. Only a few species, which rely on exceptional camouflage and remain motionless to avoid danger, rarely make use of hiding places.
The vast majority of species kept in captivity require a suitable retreat. A lack of shelter can cause stress, and a stressed spider is more likely to behave nervously and may not thrive as well.
How to prepare a hiding place for a spider
Many spiders use natural depressions, holes, crevices, and cracks as shelter from predators and unfavorable environmental conditions, although not all species dig their own retreats. It is therefore important to provide a hiding place that matches both the species’ preferences and the size of the spider. Suitable options include ground depressions, pieces of bark placed horizontally or vertically, arranged branches, cork tubes, coconut shells, dry leaves used as mulch, appropriately selected rocks, piles of stones, plants covering part of the enclosure, clumps of moss, and other decorative elements.
Burrowing species that readily excavate their own retreats will usually do so without assistance. Sometimes, however, they benefit from a small starter depression, which provides a suitable location from which to begin digging.
Arboreal species often inhabit spaces beneath bark, tree hollows, bark irregularities, and gaps between epiphytic plants in the wild. For these species, the terrarium should be arranged to recreate similar conditions using vertically positioned bark pieces, branches, and cork bark. The spider will use these elements as the basis for constructing its retreat or will occupy the spaces between them. Some species build extensive silk shelters, while others simply line the interior of their retreat with a thin layer of webbing.
Other terrarium décor elements
You can further enrich the terrarium by adding additional climbing surfaces, decorative elements, and plants. Some of these may also serve as hiding places for the spider. A wide variety of materials can be used, provided they do not contain thorns, sharp edges, or other features that could injure the spider’s delicate abdomen. Suitable materials include:
- branches, roots, and tree bark sourced from dead wood that no longer contains sap or resin (coniferous wood is best avoided),
- cork and wooden decorations designed for animal enclosures,
- stones, rocks, and gravel,
- plastic, acrylic, or concrete decorations intended for animal use, provided they do not contain harmful substances,
- artificial vines and plants designed for animal enclosures, provided they do not contain harmful substances,
- dried sphagnum moss,
- live moss obtained from a garden or purchased from a store (many moss species are protected in Poland), which helps increase humidity and indicates when misting is required once it begins to dry out,
- live plants, which help maintain humidity and create numerous smaller microhabitats within the terrarium.
Bioactive terrarium for a spider
When setting up a terrarium, it is worth taking inspiration from the spider’s natural habitat and lifestyle. This will provide greater comfort for the animal and create conditions that allow you to observe many interesting natural behaviors.
A spider terrarium can also serve a decorative purpose, and many keepers aim to create a miniature piece of nature within it. These are known as bioactive terrariums, which, once properly established, can remain attractive for many months or even years. Such terrariums often require little to no cleaning, as all organic waste undergoes natural decomposition within the enclosure. To make this possible, the substrate must be properly prepared and populated with scavenging organisms, such as springtails which feed on feces and organic debris, as well as beneficial bacteria that accelerate the decomposition of organic matter, such as Tropical Bacto-Active Terra and Tropical Nitri-Active Terra.
All of these organisms support the natural breakdown of organic material, creating a bioactive substrate that helps keep the terrarium clean for longer. In addition, the decomposed matter becomes an excellent fertilizer for terrarium plants. To improve the health and development of springtails, it is worth adding Tropical Coco Carb Terra activated carbon to the substrate. Activated carbon helps create better conditions for their growth by filtering and retaining harmful substances. A bioactive substrate helps maintain proper hygiene in the terrarium and can also reduce the development of mold and saprophagous mites.
What temperature is suitable for spiders?
Most spider species thrive at room temperature, approximately 22–26°C, especially those recommended for beginners. Lower temperatures can significantly slow their growth. If the temperature in the room falls below 20°C, additional heating is generally recommended. Heating is usually provided during the day, particularly when using a heat source that also emits light. This mimics natural conditions, where daytime temperatures are higher and nighttime temperatures are lower. If the temperature does not fall below the minimum recommended for the species during the night, additional heating is unnecessary. However, if it does, nighttime heating should also be provided. To avoid manually turning heating devices on and off, it is worth installing a timer that plugs into a power outlet and controls when electricity is supplied to connected devices. If you keep multiple spider terrariums, you can also heat an entire shelf or rack, for example by running a heating cable along the vertical surfaces of the furniture. There are several ways to provide supplemental heating for a spider terrarium:
Heating mat
A heating mat is one of the easiest heating solutions to use. Simply plug it in and attach it to the side of the terrarium. For spiders, heating from below should be avoided, as many species will burrow deeper if the temperature becomes too high. A heating mat placed underneath the enclosure can disrupt this natural behavior. It also increases water evaporation from the substrate, causing it to dry out more quickly. The mat should cover only part of the terrarium wall, approximately one-third of its surface, and should always be installed on the outside of the enclosure. A piece of Styrofoam, foam insulation, or a heat shield can be placed behind the mat to help reflect heat back toward the terrarium. The best option is a heating mat equipped with a thermostat, which allows precise temperature control and adjustment. A thermostat also provides additional safety by preventing overheating in the event of a malfunction.
Heating cable
A heating cable works similarly to a heating mat but must be arranged and secured in a specific way. As a result, it is more difficult to reposition. Its advantage is the ability to create temperature gradients. Areas where the cable is laid more densely will be warmer, while areas where it is spaced further apart will remain cooler. Although heating cables are available without thermostats, it is advisable to use an external thermostat for safety. In the event of a malfunction, a heating cable can sometimes reach temperatures exceeding 100°C, potentially melting materials such as Styrofoam placed underneath it. For this reason, appropriate safeguards are highly recommended.
Heating lamps
Heating lamps are another effective option, although they require a suitable fixture. They can be installed inside the terrarium, provided the enclosure is tall enough to maintain a safe distance between the spider and the heat source. For smaller terrariums, external heating with a bulb may be a better solution. A standard desk lamp fitted with an appropriately sized heating bulb can often work well.
Ceramic heater
Ceramic heaters are installed in a similar manner to heat lamps. Unlike lamps, however, they produce heat without emitting light.
Humidity in a spider terrarium
Tropical spider species are adapted to high humidity and are often sensitive to dry conditions. Desert species, on the other hand, thrive in drier environments and should not be kept under excessively humid conditions.
Proper humidity is maintained by moistening part of the substrate and creating areas where moisture can persist longer. This can be achieved, for example, by placing pieces of bark or branches that reduce evaporation from the soil. Maintaining precise humidity levels is not always easy, especially in smaller terrariums. The best approach is often to create different humidity zones within the enclosure, allowing the spider to choose the conditions that suit it best. This can be accomplished by regularly misting the same section of the terrarium, such as the area beneath pieces of bark.
The frequency of misting should be adjusted according to the desired humidity level and the rate at which moisture evaporates. In most cases, misting a spider terrarium once a week is sufficient. Avoid excessive misting, as standing water can lead to substrate decay and mold growth. It is generally better to mist more often using smaller amounts of water.
Excessively dry conditions should also be avoided. Even desert species benefit from having access to a slightly more humid area within the enclosure, although it does not need to be misted as heavily as for tropical species. In nature, desert spiders often select shelters based on soil moisture, favoring seasonal streambeds, depressions in the landscape, shaded locations, and areas beneath rocks, fallen wood, or stones. Higher humidity is especially important during molting.
Drainage layer in the terrarium
A drainage layer made of expanded clay, such as Tropical TerraLava, can be placed beneath the substrate. This allows excess water to drain to the bottom of the enclosure, making it easy to notice when the terrarium is being overwatered and adjust the amount of water accordingly. A drainage layer is also particularly useful when the terrarium has extensive ventilation and the substrate dries out too quickly, or when live plants are being grown and require more stable moisture conditions. In such cases, a larger amount of water can be added at once, allowing excess moisture to collect at the bottom of the enclosure. The drainage layer should be deep enough to prevent standing water from coming into direct contact with the substrate above. Moisture then reaches the substrate through evaporation and capillary action, helping to maintain humidity while reducing the risk of substrate decay. Expanded clay can also be used as an additive in substrate mixtures for burrowing species.
Does a spider need a water dish?
A water dish is not always necessary. Spiders obtain water by drinking droplets from surfaces or by absorbing moisture from a damp substrate. When humidity levels are maintained appropriately, spiders generally have a reduced need to replenish fluids. In many cases, the moisture contained in their food is sufficient. Spiders usually drink water when their environment becomes too dry. Many keepers successfully maintain spiders without a water dish by providing properly moistened substrate and regular misting.
Small species and juvenile specimens of larger species are generally not provided with a water dish, as they can drown in it. At the same time, using a very small dish is often impractical, since water evaporates from it more quickly than from the substrate.
Larger spiders, however, can be provided with a water dish. This ensures constant access to water and can help increase humidity within the enclosure. The size of the dish should be appropriate for the spider, allowing it to climb out safely if it falls in. Typically, dishes with a diameter similar to or smaller than the spider’s leg span are used. Gravel can be placed at the bottom of the dish to provide traction if the spider enters the water. Stones or gravel protruding above the water surface can also help prevent drowning.
One of the most common mistakes is treating a water dish as a substitute for misting the terrarium. Many keepers provide a water dish but stop moistening the substrate and décor, assuming that the spider will obtain all the moisture it needs from the water source alone. However, spiders possess sensory organs capable of detecting differences in air humidity as small as 0.5–2%. They use this ability when selecting hiding places and suitable locations for molting. A drop in humidity is often perceived as a warning signal. Allowing the substrate to become excessively dry can cause considerable stress and may encourage the spider to leave its retreat more frequently in search of water or a more suitable microclimate. Depending on the species, an overly dry environment can have varying effects, even when water is constantly available elsewhere in the enclosure.
Low humidity and molting problems
In addition to causing stress, low humidity can create serious problems during molting. A well-hydrated spider that drinks regularly usually has enough fluid reserves to properly expand its body during the molting process. However, if the environment is excessively dry, the exoskeleton may harden too quickly, interfering with the successful shedding of the old exoskeleton and the expansion of the new one. A fluid layer located between the old and new exoskeleton facilitates molting and keeps the tissues moist. In overly dry conditions, this moisture can evaporate too rapidly, increasing the risk of complications such as becoming trapped in the old exoskeleton, which can ultimately result in the spider’s death.
Many species seal themselves inside a retreat with silk before molting, creating a more humid microenvironment. However, if the humidity within the retreat is already too low, this may not be sufficient. There is also another risk associated with molting in excessively dry conditions. Some spiders preparing to molt may attempt to do so directly in their water dish. Such situations do occur and can unfortunately end with the spider falling into the water and drowning. For this reason, it is important to avoid extremes. A water dish should never be considered a replacement for maintaining appropriate humidity and regularly misting the terrarium.
Do spiders need light?
Light is necessary for diurnal species. However, it is not always necessary to install dedicated lighting. If the terrarium is located in a bright room, the diffused daylight entering the room is usually sufficient for the spider. However, the terrarium should never be placed in direct sunlight, as this can lead to overheating. If the terrarium is located in a very dark room or if you want to provide additional light for plants, artificial lighting should be installed. This can be an LED light, which does not generate additional heat, or a heat lamp if supplemental heating is also required.
Nocturnal and subterranean species do not require additional lighting to function properly and generally do well with the ambient light available in the room, even if it is relatively limited. However, daylight lighting can still be installed if additional illumination is needed for live plants.
What should you feed spiders?
Spiders are predators and should be fed live prey insects appropriate for their size. Suitable food items include springtails, fruit flies, crickets, cockroaches, grasshoppers, house crickets, mealworm larvae, and woodlice Other invertebrates may also be offered if available, provided they come from captive-bred sources rather than the wild. Wild-caught insects can carry parasites that may infect spiders. Captive-bred feeder insects generally pose a lower risk, and some suppliers periodically test their cultures for parasites.
Offer a variety of prey items to ensure a varied diet and support proper development. As a general rule, prey should not exceed the size of the spider’s abdomen. This is considered a safe average, although many spiders are capable of handling larger prey.
How often should you feed spiders?
Feeding frequency depends on the species and age of the spider. Juveniles require more frequent feeding. True spiders are generally fed every 1–2 days, while tarantulas are usually fed every 3–7 days. As spiders mature, feeding frequency decreases. Adult true spiders are typically fed every 5–7 days, while adult tarantulas may be fed every 2–4 weeks. More frequent feeding may be necessary if only smaller feeder insects are available and the spider is unable to consume an adequate amount of food in a single meal.
The feeding intervals given above are averages and may vary depending on the species, ambient temperature, and stage of development. Spiders often have an increased appetite after molting but usually refuse food before a molt. For this reason, it is important to observe the spider and adjust feeding frequency accordingly.
Only provide as much food as the spider can consume within a single day. In most cases, this means one prey item. Occasionally, more can be offered, but it is important to ensure that all prey has been eaten. Uneaten insects left in the terrarium can pose a threat during molting if they remain alive. Some may injure or feed on a vulnerable spider during the molting process, while others may simply interfere with successful molting.
Can you handle a spider?
This is a question many beginner keepers ask. The answer is not straightforward, as it depends on the species, venom potency, temperament, and the specific circumstances. In general, handling spiders is discouraged for the safety of both the keeper and the animal. Spiders do not benefit from human contact, and handling carries several risks, including falls, injury, bites, escape, and exposure to urticating hairs in species that possess them. The best approach is to treat a spider as an animal to observe rather than one to handle regularly. Many species are simply too fast or too defensive for unnecessary handling to be worth the risk. Although calmer species are handled by some keepers, doing so always involves the risks described above.
Common beginner mistakes
When starting out, it is easy to make mistakes that can affect a spider’s comfort and health. The most common include:
- choosing a species that is too difficult to care for,
- keeping the terrarium excessively damp,
- failing to mist the enclosure because a water dish is present,
- not providing adequate hiding places,
- interfering excessively with the spider’s natural behavior,
- offering too many live feeder insects at once,
- leaving uneaten live insects in the terrarium.
Each of these mistakes can negatively affect the spider’s health or even put its life at risk. It is worth taking the time to avoid them and seeking additional information whenever problems or uncertainties arise.
Summary
Keeping a spider is not particularly difficult, but it does require a responsible approach and a basic understanding of the animal’s needs. The most important step is choosing a species that matches your experience level and expectations. Provide a suitable terrarium and avoid treating the spider as a pet intended for regular interaction. A spider is primarily an animal to observe and will thrive best when provided with peace, appropriate conditions, and a keeper who understands its requirements.
References
- Compiled based on personal experience and the following references.
- Cieślak P. 1994. HOBBY. Pająki ptaszniki. Warszawa, wydawnictwo Egros.
- Encyklopedia internetowa: https://en.wikipedia.org.
- Schuiten B.I. 2008. Zwierzęta w terrarium, tłum. Borycka-Zakrzewska J. (Wydawnictwo REA, 2011), 28-41.
- Terrarystyka: https://www.terrarium.com.pl.
- Żabka M. 2013. Pajęczy świat. Muzeum i Instytut Zoologii PAN. Warszawa.
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